Post by ErmirI on Apr 23, 2009 1:48:24 GMT -5
BUTRINT: SINKING RUINS OF ALBANIA
FORMER COMMUNIST STATE PRESERVES WORLD-CLASS HIKE AS NATURE ENCROACHES
Sheena Rossiter / sheena@vueweekly.com
The lush overgrowth and pooling water around the old walls is evidence of nature's persistence. Butrint is sinking, and its UNESCO world-heritage-site protection status won't do anything to help pull it up out of the ground.
Seventeen years after the fall of Ramiz Alia's communist regime, the slowly sinking archaeological site on Albania's coast—considered at risk since 1997—is an impressive attraction. It gives visitors some insight into the rich ancient heritage of Albania's southern county of Vlorë—a stark contrast to the images most are used to associating with the country: its recent war-torn, restrictive communist history.
The ruins reveal a broad range of influences, showing signs of its time as a Greek colony, a Roman city, a bishopric, the Byzantine administration and a brief occupation by the Venetians. Only two miles from Greece's popular tourist destination of Corfu, the national park is easily accessible by ferry from Corfu Town's port to the Albanian port of Sarandë. It's only a half-hour to 45-minute boat ride from Greek to Albanian shores, costing about €15 (approximately $24 CDN) for a return trip. However, Albania being one of the few European countries left out of the golden ring of stars in the European Union, all tourists are required to pay a visa entry fee of €10 ($16 CDN). There's no charge if you plan to come and go from the country within a day. For holders of non-EU passports, going though Greek customs and then Albanian customs will likely take double or triple the time of the boat ride, so it's recommended to get there early, before the office opens at 8 am.
Once free of the national politics, it's a short but confusing drive from the port to Butrint. With perplexing road signs on a winding dirt road that zigzags around memorial sites on the roadsides of a high cliff, it's worth getting a taxi from the port instead of renting a car. The national park spreads approximately 4000 hectares, bordered by man-made Lake Butrint on one side and the Ionian Sea on the other. Entrance to the park costs 700 Leke (about $9 CDN) per person for non-Albanians and 500 Leke (about $6.50 CDN) for groups over 10.
With wide-set, well-groomed paths, the hiking level through the amphitheatre and the site of the old city are appropriate for all ages and levels. The hike isn't rigorous, but we quickly realize that we aren't the only visitors at Butrint. It's not long before we're completely swarmed by mosquitoes, making the hike uncomfortable for the divas who forgot their bug spray and are using their travel-sized hairspray bottles as a cheap substitute. But it's worth it as our journey takes us through ancient stone doorways that seem like we're travelling through time. Our leisurely hike takes us through four eras, thousands of years of complex history, and we're back to reality and the start in less than two hours.
Realistically, the hike will probably take less time than the journey to the site itself. But sometimes it's about the journey to the destination—in this case to a country that is trying to build itself up for EU acceptance—that really makes the experience. The labyrinth of ferries, customs and treacherous roads is a true adventure. For those taking a quick getaway to neighbouring Greece, Butrint's beautiful and lengthy history—at a fraction of Grecian prices—is worth checking out in a country that many would never think of visiting. V
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